We've mentioned 'set-up' quite a bit on here and I'd like to know a little more...

What do you do when you apply a 'professional set-up' to a factory violin?


What difference does a high or low bridge make? How does the thickness of the bridge affect the sound too?


(p.s. Have a Merry Christmas!!!!! )

A full 'professional' set-up can go as far as removing the top plate and re-shaping it to improve the tone. More usually things like fitting a new sound-post, bridge and strings, fitting or re-shaping the nut, fitting new pegs or re-shaping the old ones and re-shaping the fingerboard and slimming of the neck may be carried out.
Aspects like the shape of the bridge depend on the requirements of the player, what type of music they play and the tonal strengths and weaknesses of the particular instrument.

Slimming the neck, that's interesting too know! I have small hands and violin necks tend to be too chunky for me. If I ever buy a more expensive violin, I definitely get that done. My violin bridge is in a bad shape, once I get a chance I'll need to sort it out at the violin shop. I'm gonna be nosy and check out what services they offer.

By the way, out of interest does anyone know how much a 'professional' set-up cost?

The cost will vary depending on the amount of work done and the experience and reputaion of the luthier.
Anything from £60-£250 for fairly straighforward work on bridge, nut fingerboard, soundpost etc.
If the work involves the luther removing the top then the cost will be higher.

Thicker bridge = softer and darker tone. Thinner bridge = louder and brighter tone. High bridge - better tone and more volume, lower bridge - loss of tone and volume.

So in other words there is an element of compromise involved.

Liz

How would a luthier 'slim' down the neck of a violin - with sandpaper? Would it not have to be re-varnished which would be a really long process? *thinks* it's not the same varnish on the neck as the body is it?







Thank you - that's really helpful to know.