QUOTE(Dora @ Oct 14 2009, 10:22 AM)

QUOTE(andante_in_c @ Oct 14 2009, 08:49 AM)

I would think very carefully about spending this sort of money at this stage. Flutes in the £4K range are still likely to need upgrading at some stage. I would suggest you look at finding an open holed flute if that's what the teacher requires (but only if your daughter's hands will cope with open holes without strain) with a view to upgrading the headjoint at a later stage.
Thank you for this.
Might you have some suggestions of flutes we should look at. I know that it depends on the individual flautist and obviously she and her teacher will be able to decide which one works the best for her, I can't tell at all, but I would hate not to consider a good flute because we didn't know about it. I think in essence that is why I asked the original question. I am absolutely content to leave the final decision to the two of them. I just don't want to miss out a good flute in our search.
Thanks
Dora
I think you are probably worrying unnecessarily here.

If you go to a specialist flute dealer (not a general music shop or a general woodwind dealer) they will have more than enough flutes for you to look at. Yes, they won't have every single flute that's currently made, but this doesn't matter - they will have a good selection of quality instruments which will suit a range of players and are priced fairly in terms of what you're getting. You want a reasonable choice, but not an excessive one. 10 or 20 flutes is probably easier to make a choice from than 50 - if there's too many you'll get really confused.
Yes, if you go to a shop and they only have a couple of flutes for you to try then keep looking, even if you do subsequently go back to one of those flutes. A specialist dealer will have a range of flutes from the leading brands (e.g. Altus, Muramatsu, Mateki, Miyazawa, Sankyo, Yamaha, Powell, T. James, Pearl and Haynes amongst others). They may not have all of these brands (stock does vary partly on retailers preferences and also on things like exchange rates and manufacturer output) and may have some others that I haven't listed, but they will have more than enough for Beth to try. When I upgraded last year Muramatsu and Mateki have very low outputs of the kind of flute I was after, but this didn't honestly matter - there were more than enough other flutes for me to try.
If you are looking at open hole models to correct fingering then it is important to make sure that the tuning and intonation is still adequate with the plugs/bungs in. The reality is that a lot of people buy open hole flutes thinking it will solve all their problems, and years later they still haven't managed to correct their fingering enough to remove all the bungs. In general, flutes are designed to be either open holed or closed holed, and putting bungs into an open hole flute to convert it can change things like the resonnance of the instrument, how the air moves along it, the scale, tuning, tone colouring and flexibility. How much this matters depends on the player and what they are wanting to do with their flute playing.
The advice from my teacher when I upgraded (and teachers do have different opinions on this kind of thing - some seem to think that open holes are automatically better even though it really does depend on the player) was that I shouldn't buy an open hole flute unless I could
already play it without the bungs. As it happens I did buy an open hole flute, but this was because it was the right flute for me rather than because it was open holed. My final shortlist of flutes which I took on trial consisted of two open hole flutes and one closed hole flute - because in each instance the variant I took on trial was the best version of that particular flute for me.