Hi DGA - I've been learning this concerto myself. I started in March, and if it's had an hour's practise a
week it's been doing well, but as you identify it's not too hard to get under the fingers at a basic level. I can mostly get through from memory now.
I'm finding it more of a problem in terms of physical strength and stamina, particularly version 3 of the cadenza.
The slow movement needs very careful work - I think it's all too easy to rush the opening when you consider how you have to deal with the more expanded theme later on.
Haven't tackled the 3rd movement yet. This having a full time job thing gets in the way.
So no, I don't think it's a fiendishly hard work, but requires it solid technical control a large helping of bravura to pull off - where I'm at at the moment it's an excellent piece to learn. Good luck finding something that offers the learning experience you're after.